![]() ![]() The late tail style I think, with the longer box. Maybe sticking to small and medium loads is best until I see how my body takes to it. Hi everyone, By the variety of advice on rivet nuts, it would seem I should proceed with caution. Anyone use these fasteners or have an opinion on them? My buggy wants to know. ![]() I am also considering using rubber nut inserts (Lowe's and Home Depot) but they do not have the holding power of the steel or aluminum products. Do you think this type of fastener is OK to use on a buggy body to mount tail lights, wire harness, hood hold down, etc.? With the vibration and temperature extremes buggy bodies endure, would there be any risk of cracking or would they help to prevent it by giving a larger mounting surface than screws? You can also use washers behind them (like with a rivet). Yesterday I used them on a kiddie ride to replace stripped holes where a light fixture screws to the fiberglass. They are open bottom so I installed 1/4" stainless cap head screws with plumbers putty on the threads for a water tight install. I did not want to buy another tool to do metric so I used 1/4"-20 with a wide flange head and a bit of silicone on each. Jeep uses closed bottom metric nuts for this ( Jeeps are made in Canada ). I got one at the salvage yard for $35 and installed 12 steel Polly nuts on the roof. One of our Jeep Cherokee's did not have a roof rack. They are used in everything from computer and appliance cases to auto bodies and trim. You will not find this at Home Depot or Lowe's. Some industrial suppliers sell only to commercial customers but you can usually get such a customer to buy it for you for cash. The big one is easier to squeeze when installing steel nuts but the right angle tool will reach more places. Or you can get a real Marson from your local Grainger or other industrial supplier for $85 for the small right angle tool kit or $130 for the big heavy duty straight style (tool only). You can get the tool kit from a cheap made in China tool store like Harbor Freight Tools, etc. They come in a wide variety of diameters, lengths, thread sizes, mounting thickness, flange or flush heads, aluminum or steel with closed or open bottom. ![]() And you can do it from one side (like a rivet). that is too thin or too soft to tap threads into. It lets you use machine screws and bolts in steel, plastic, fiberglass, etc. It looks and works like a rivet gun but it installs a line of products called "Polly Nuts" and "Rivet Nuts". One of the most useful tools I use is a "nut setter" from Marson Tools. Although the metal seems thinner in these areas.Ī 48" piece of L Track has 10 mounting holes.Īlso it seems the Astro tool seems to be the go to on Amazon for $60.Hi everybody, I am a game tech by trade and do a lot of repair on kiddie rides and motion driving games with fiberglass bodies and seats. If they are strong enough I'll likely use them in the floor of the bed as well, also to keep me from removing the bed. From what I can see, the area where I'd likely be drilling seems to have at least two layers of metal maybe a few millimeters thick. So to save me the time of removing the bed and sliding it forward, I thought I'd use rivnuts. The problem is between the cab and the bed there is no room for a wrench. ![]() I don't think I'll be using it for anything that heavy duty but you never know. The WLL is 1666 lbs for just one of the clips that go into the L Track (common for strapping ATV's and motorcycles). I'll likely use the stainless bolts they sell for the bed rails, as I can put washers and really clamp onto the sheetmetal. I'm looking at installing some L Track in my truck bed for tie downs and to bolt a mount for a Hi Lift Jack. I've done some digging (searching) around in here and still had a few questions. ![]()
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